Before diving into specific models, it's essential to understand what distinguishes a good Submariner homage from a cheap knock-off. A quality homage pays tribute to the original design while maintaining its own identity and offering solid value. Here's a breakdown of the critical factors to consider:

Design and Aesthetics

The visual resemblance to the Submariner is the primary draw for most buyers. Key design elements to consider include:

  • Overall Shape: Does it capture the classic Submariner case shape?
  • Dial and Hands: Are the indices, hands (Mercedes hour hand, sword minute hand, lollipop seconds hand), and dial layout faithful to the original, while still offering a unique touch?
  • Bezel: Does it have a unidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic or aluminum insert and legible markings? A 120-click bezel generally feels more premium.
  • Bracelet: Is the bracelet comfortable and well-made? Consider the clasp, solid end links, and overall finishing.
  • Crystal: A sapphire crystal is a must-have for scratch resistance and clarity.
Movement: The Heart of the Watch

The movement is the engine that powers the watch and significantly impacts its reliability and accuracy. Common movements found in Submariner homages include:

  • Japanese Movements (Seiko/Miyota): Known for their reliability and affordability. The Seiko NH35 and Miyota 8215 are popular choices. These movements are generally automatic and offer hacking (the seconds hand stops when the crown is pulled out) and hand-winding capabilities.
  • Swiss Movements (ETA/Sellita): Offer higher accuracy and refinement but come at a higher price. The ETA 2824-2 and Sellita SW200-1 are common options and considered workhorses.
  • Chinese Movements (Sea-Gull/PT5000): Offer good value for money. The Sea-Gull ST2130 and PT5000 offer similar performance to the ETA 2824-2 at a lower cost. The PT5000 has gained popularity for its improved accuracy and robustness.

Consider your budget and desired level of accuracy when choosing a movement.

Build Quality and Materials

High-quality materials and construction are crucial for longevity and a premium feel. Look for:

  • Case Material: 316L stainless steel is the industry standard for its corrosion resistance and durability.
  • Water Resistance: A true dive watch should have a water resistance of at least 200 meters (20 ATM). Make sure the watch has a screw-down crown and case back to ensure water resistance.
  • Finishing: Pay attention to the finishing of the case, bracelet, and dial. Look for even brushing, polished chamfers, and crisp details.
Value for Money

The beauty of a Submariner homage is that it offers a similar aesthetic at a much lower price. Consider the overall value proposition: are you getting a well-built watch with a reliable movement and good materials for the price?