The immense value and prestige associated with Audemars Piguet watches make them a lucrative target for counterfeiters. Several factors contribute to this phenomenon:
- High Resale Value: Genuine AP watches, particularly limited editions and vintage models, can command exorbitant prices on the secondary market.
- Brand Recognition: The Royal Oak's distinctive octagonal bezel and exposed screws are iconic, making it instantly recognizable, even to those not deeply immersed in the watch world.
- Complex Construction: While the complexity of a genuine AP is a hallmark of its quality, it also presents a challenge for counterfeiters trying to replicate the intricate details, but often they cut corners.
- Status Symbol: Owning an AP watch is a symbol of wealth and success, fueling the demand, and subsequently, the supply of fakes.
The Anatomy of a Fake AP Watch: Identifying the Tells
Spotting a fake AP watch requires a keen eye and familiarity with the genuine article. Here are some key areas to scrutinize:
1. The Dial: A Window into Authenticity
The dial is often the most revealing indicator of a fake. Look for the following:
- Font and Printing Quality: Authentic AP dials feature crisp, precise printing. Fake dials often exhibit blurry, uneven, or misaligned text. Pay close attention to the "Audemars Piguet" signature and the "Swiss Made" designation.
- Tachymeter Scale: If present, the tachymeter scale should be perfectly aligned and evenly spaced. Inconsistencies are a red flag.
- Subdials: Chronograph models have subdials. These should be meticulously crafted with consistent spacing and precise hand alignment. Look for imperfections in the subdial printing or hand positioning.
- Date Window: The date should be perfectly centered in the window, with the date font matching the authentic AP font. Magnification (if present) should be clear and undistorted.
- "Tapisserie" Pattern: The Royal Oak's signature "Tapisserie" pattern (either "Petite Tapisserie," "Grande Tapisserie," or "Méga Tapisserie") is incredibly difficult to replicate accurately. Examine the pattern closely. Authentic patterns are sharp, well-defined, and consistent across the dial. Fakes often have a blurry, uneven, or shallower pattern.
- Luminescence: The lume (luminous material) on genuine AP watches is applied evenly and glows brightly and consistently. Fake watches often have weak, uneven, or poorly applied lume.
2. The Case: Attention to Detail is Key
The case of an AP watch is a testament to its craftsmanship. Inspect the following:
- Case Material: Authentic AP watches are made from high-quality materials like stainless steel, gold, platinum, or titanium. The weight and feel of the watch should reflect the material used. A lightweight "gold" AP is a major red flag.
- Finishing: AP is renowned for its meticulous finishing, including polishing, brushing, and satin finishing. Look for sharp lines, smooth surfaces, and consistent finishing throughout the case. Fakes often have rough edges, uneven surfaces, and inconsistent finishing.
- Octagonal Bezel and Screws: The Royal Oak's iconic octagonal bezel with exposed screws is a key identifier. The screws should be perfectly aligned with each other and with the bezel facets. The screw heads should be flat and polished. Misaligned screws or screws with rounded heads are common indicators of a fake.
- Engravings: The case back often features engravings with the AP logo, model number, and serial number. These engravings should be crisp, precise, and deeply etched. Fakes often have shallow, poorly defined engravings.
- Water Resistance: While difficult to test without specialized equipment, a fake AP is unlikely to have the water resistance advertised. Avoid submerging a questionable watch in water.
3. The Movement: The Heart of the Matter
The movement is the engine of the watch and the most challenging part to replicate accurately. This often requires a professional to inspect, but some telltale signs can be observed from the caseback (if it is a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback):
- Movement Type: Research the specific movement used in the model you are examining. Fake AP watches often use inexpensive, generic movements that bear no resemblance to the authentic AP movement.
- Finishing: Authentic AP movements are meticulously finished with Geneva stripes, perlage, and hand-chamfered edges. Fake movements typically lack these intricate details.
- Balance Wheel: The balance wheel should oscillate smoothly and consistently. Jerky or erratic movement is a sign of a poor-quality movement.
- Engravings and Markings: The movement should be clearly marked with the AP logo and other identifying information. These markings should be crisp and precise.
- Sound: The ticking sound of a genuine AP movement is typically subtle and refined. A loud or uneven ticking sound is a red flag.
4. The Bracelet or Strap: A Seamless Extension of the Watch
The bracelet or strap should seamlessly integrate with the case and reflect the overall quality of the watch.
- Material: The bracelet or strap should be made from high-quality materials that match the case material.
- Construction: The bracelet should be well-constructed with solid links and a secure clasp. The links should articulate smoothly and without excessive play.
- Finishing: The finishing of the bracelet or strap should match the finishing of the case.
- Engravings: The clasp should be engraved with the AP logo and other identifying information.
Red Flags: Warning Signs to Heed
Beyond the specific details of the watch itself, be wary of these red flags:
- Unbelievably Low Price: If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is. Authentic AP watches command high prices, and a significant discount should raise suspicion.
- Questionable Seller: Purchase from reputable authorized dealers or well-known and respected secondary market sellers. Avoid buying from unknown or untrustworthy sources.
- Missing Paperwork and Packaging: Authentic AP watches come with complete paperwork, including the warranty card, certificate of origin, and instruction manual. The packaging should also be original and in good condition. Missing paperwork or packaging is a major red flag.
- Pressure to Buy Quickly: A seller who pressures you to make a quick decision may be trying to prevent you from conducting thorough research.
- Poor Communication: Unprofessional communication, grammatical errors, or evasive answers from the seller should raise concerns.
The Risks and Consequences of Buying a Fake AP Watch
Buying a fake AP watch carries several risks and consequences:
- Financial Loss: You will lose your money on a worthless product that has no resale value.
- Legal Implications: Buying or selling counterfeit goods is illegal in many countries and can result in fines or even imprisonment.
- Ethical Concerns: Supporting the counterfeit industry fuels organized crime and undermines legitimate businesses.
- Damage to Reputation: Being seen wearing a fake watch can damage your reputation and social standing.
Protecting Yourself: Tips for Avoiding Fake AP Watches
Here are some actionable steps you can take to protect yourself from buying a fake AP watch:
- Buy from Authorized Dealers: The safest way to ensure authenticity is to purchase from an authorized Audemars Piguet dealer.
- Research the Seller: If buying from a secondary market seller, research their reputation and history. Look for reviews and testimonials from other buyers.
- Inspect the Watch Carefully: Examine the watch thoroughly, paying attention to all the details mentioned above.
- Request Authentication: If you are unsure about the authenticity of a watch, have it authenticated by a qualified watch expert.
- Trust Your Gut: If something feels off about the deal, walk away.
The Legal Ramifications of Counterfeit Watches
The production, distribution, and sale of counterfeit watches are illegal activities with serious legal consequences. Intellectual property laws, including trademark and copyright laws, protect the legitimate brand owners. These laws provide legal recourse against counterfeiters, allowing them to pursue civil and criminal penalties. Consumers who knowingly purchase or sell counterfeit goods may also face legal repercussions, depending on the jurisdiction.
FAQ: Common Questions About Fake AP Watches
- Audemars Piguet Official Website: https://www.audemarspiguet.com/
- Watch forums and communities (e.g., Watchuseek, TimeZone) for discussions on identifying fake watches.
- Articles from reputable watch publications (e.g., Hodinkee, Revolution Watch) on counterfeit watches.