The Enduring Appeal of Elgin Diamond Watches

Elgin National Watch Company, founded in 1864 in Elgin, Illinois, was once the largest watch manufacturer in the United States. They were renowned for producing high-quality, reliable timepieces that were accessible to a broad range of consumers. While Elgin produced watches with varying levels of ornamentation, diamond-set models represented a touch of luxury and sophistication, appealing to those seeking both style and precision.

The vintage charm of Elgin diamond watches lies in their Art Deco designs, classic elegance, and the historical significance of the Elgin brand itself. These watches often feature:

• Classic Designs: Many Elgin diamond watches hail from the Art Deco era (1920s-1930s), showcasing geometric shapes, clean lines, and a timeless aesthetic.
• Quality Movements: Elgin movements were known for their durability and accuracy. Even today, a well-maintained Elgin movement can provide reliable timekeeping.
• Precious Metals: Authentic Elgin diamond watches are often crafted from gold (various karats), platinum, or gold-filled materials.
• Genuine Diamonds (Typically): While not always the highest grade, genuine Elgin diamond watches were set with real diamonds, albeit often smaller and single-cut or rose-cut in vintage models.

This combination of history, design, and precious materials makes genuine Elgin diamond watches valuable collectibles and cherished heirlooms. However, this value also attracts counterfeiters seeking to profit from unsuspecting buyers.

Why Fake Elgin Diamond Watches Exist

The existence of fake Elgin diamond watches stems from several factors:

• Brand Recognition: Elgin is a well-known and respected brand, even if production ceased in the 1960s. This brand recognition makes it appealing for counterfeiters to exploit.
• Demand for Vintage Watches: The market for vintage watches is booming, and diamond-set models are particularly sought after. This high demand creates an opportunity for fakes to enter the market.
• Potential for Profit: Diamonds and precious metals hold significant value. Counterfeiters aim to replicate the look of genuine pieces using cheaper materials and fake diamonds, profiting from the difference.
• Ease of Replication (Superficial): While replicating the intricate mechanics of a watch movement is difficult, superficially mimicking the aesthetics of an Elgin diamond watch – the case, dial, and diamond settings – is more achievable for skilled counterfeiters.

Understanding these motivations helps to appreciate the importance of careful authentication when dealing with Elgin diamond watches, especially those offered online or through less reputable sources.

Key Indicators of a Real Elgin Diamond Watch: Your Authentication Checklist

Authenticating an Elgin diamond watch requires a meticulous approach, examining various aspects of the timepiece. Here's a detailed checklist to guide you:

1. Hallmarks and Markings: The Brand's Signature

Authentic Elgin watches are consistently marked. Look for the following:

• "Elgin" or "Elgin National Watch Co." on the Dial: This is the most obvious and crucial marking. Examine the font, clarity, and placement. Fakes often have poorly printed or misspelled logos.
• Movement Markings: Open the case back (carefully, or have a professional do it). The movement (the inner workings of the watch) should be clearly marked with "Elgin National Watch Co." or simply "Elgin," along with the movement serial number and sometimes the number of jewels.
• Case Markings: The inside of the case back should also bear markings. Look for:
  • Case Maker's Mark: Often a symbol or initials indicating the case manufacturer (Elgin sometimes used cases from various suppliers, but they would be reputable).
  • Metal Purity Markings: If the case is gold, it should be marked with the karat (e.g., "14K," "18K"). For gold-filled cases, markings like "1/10 14K Gold Filled" are common. Platinum cases will be marked "Platinum" or "Pt." Absence of metal markings on a case purported to be precious metal is a major red flag.
  • Serial Number: The case serial number may match the movement serial number, but not always. Both should exist and appear professionally engraved or stamped, not crudely etched.

Actionable Insight: Use a jeweler's loupe (magnifying glass) to closely examine all markings. Compare the font and style to images of known authentic Elgin markings online or in reference books. Any inconsistencies, misspellings, or poorly executed markings are strong indicators of a fake.

2. Diamond Quality and Setting: Scrutinizing the Sparkle

While Elgin diamond watches weren't known for exceptionally large or high-grade diamonds, they used genuine stones. Consider the following diamond aspects:

• Diamond Type: Vintage Elgin diamond watches typically used single-cut or rose-cut diamonds. These are simpler cuts compared to modern brilliant cuts. Be wary of watches claiming to have large, modern brilliant-cut diamonds in a distinctly vintage Elgin setting.
• Diamond Clarity and Color: Expect vintage diamonds to have some inclusions (natural imperfections) and a slight tint. Perfectly flawless, colorless diamonds in a vintage watch setting should raise suspicion.
• Setting Style and Quality: Elgin employed various setting styles, including prong settings, bezel settings, and pave settings. Examine the settings for neatness and security. Diamonds should be firmly set and not appear loosely glued or poorly mounted.
• Diamond Testing (If Possible): If you have access to a diamond tester, use it cautiously. A basic diamond tester can differentiate between diamonds and common simulants like cubic zirconia (CZ). However, it cannot distinguish between natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds, which are also real diamonds but might not be original to the watch. For definitive diamond authentication, consult a gemologist.

Actionable Insight: Look for signs of genuine diamond characteristics. Do the stones have some natural imperfections? Do they exhibit brilliance and fire (sparkle)? Are they securely set in a professional manner? If the diamonds look too perfect, too large, or poorly set, it's a cause for concern.

3. Movement and Mechanics: The Heart of the Watch

The movement is arguably the most crucial factor in authenticating any watch. Elgin movements were generally well-made and distinctive. Key points to check:

• Elgin Caliber and Serial Number Database: Elgin maintained detailed records of their movements. Online databases (like Pocket Watch Database or similar resources) allow you to enter the serial number found on the movement and verify the approximate production date, movement type, and sometimes even the model. A serial number that doesn't correspond to an Elgin movement or era is a major red flag.
• Movement Finish and Quality: Elgin movements, while not always elaborately decorated, were typically well-finished and clean. Look for smooth metal surfaces, neatly applied plating (if any), and overall good craftsmanship. Rough, unfinished, or excessively decorated movements in a purported Elgin are suspicious.
• Jewel Count: Elgin movements were often jeweled (using synthetic rubies or sapphires as bearings to reduce friction). The jewel count should be marked on the movement. Verify if the stated jewel count is consistent with typical Elgin movements of that era and style.
• Movement Functionality: Does the watch function properly? Does it wind and set smoothly? Does it keep reasonably accurate time (for a vintage watch)? While functionality issues can occur in genuine vintage watches, a completely non-functional or poorly functioning movement in a watch claimed to be high-quality raises concerns.

Actionable Insight: Obtain the movement serial number and use online databases to verify its authenticity and origin. Compare the movement's appearance to images of known genuine Elgin movements. Assess the overall quality and functionality of the movement. If you're not comfortable opening the case, have a watchmaker inspect the movement for you.

4. Materials and Construction: The Feel and Build

Authentic Elgin watches were made with quality materials and construction techniques. Examine:

• Case Material: As mentioned earlier, check for appropriate metal purity markings. The case material should be consistent with the claimed era and style of the watch. For example, a dressy Elgin diamond watch from the 1920s would likely be in gold or platinum, not stainless steel.
• Crystal Material: Vintage watches typically used glass or acrylic crystals. Sapphire crystals are a modern invention and are unlikely to be found on a truly vintage Elgin. However, crystal replacement is common, so this is a less definitive factor.
• Overall Build Quality: Does the watch feel solid and well-constructed? Do the components fit together neatly? Are there any obvious signs of cheap or flimsy construction? Authentic Elgin watches were generally well-made for their time.

Actionable Insight: Assess the materials used in the watch. Do they appear to be of reasonable quality? Does the overall construction feel solid and well-made, or flimsy and cheap? Compare the materials and construction to descriptions of genuine Elgin watches from similar periods.

5. Provenance and Documentation: The Story of the Watch

While not always available, provenance and documentation can add significant credibility:

• Original Box and Papers: If the watch comes with its original box, papers, or sales receipts, these can be valuable indicators of authenticity. However, even these can be faked, so verify their details carefully.
• Previous Ownership History: If the seller can provide a clear history of ownership, especially if it can be traced back to a reputable source or family, it can increase confidence.
• Appraisal Certificates: A recent appraisal from a certified gemologist or watch appraiser can be valuable, especially if it specifically mentions authentication details.

Actionable Insight: Inquire about any available provenance or documentation. While their absence doesn't automatically mean the watch is fake, their presence, especially if verifiable, can be reassuring. Be cautious of overly elaborate or suspiciously new-looking "vintage" documentation.

Red Flags: Signs You Might Be Dealing with a Fake Elgin Diamond Watch

Be especially wary if you encounter any of these red flags:

• Unbelievably Low Price: If the price seems too good to be true for a diamond and gold vintage watch, it probably is. Research the market value of comparable genuine Elgin diamond watches and be suspicious of significantly lower prices.
• Pushy Seller or Lack of Transparency: A reputable seller will be happy to answer your questions, provide detailed photos, and allow for inspection. A seller who is evasive, pushy, or unwilling to provide information should be avoided.
• Poor Quality Photos or Vague Descriptions: Fake watch sellers often use blurry or generic photos and provide minimal descriptions to hide flaws and inconsistencies.
• "Brand New" Vintage Elgin Diamond Watch: Vintage watches are, by definition, old. Be extremely suspicious of any claims of a "brand new" or "never worn" vintage Elgin, especially if it's diamond-set.
• Mismatched Style or Era: Does the overall style of the watch (case, dial, hands, diamonds) seem consistent with the era Elgin was producing diamond watches (primarily Art Deco and mid-century)? If it looks like a modern style with an Elgin logo slapped on, it's likely fake.
• Generic or Modern Movement: If you can see the movement and it's clearly a generic, unbranded movement, or a modern quartz movement in a vintage-style case, it's definitely not a genuine Elgin.

Actionable Insight: Trust your instincts. If something feels off about the deal, the seller, or the watch itself, it's best to err on the side of caution and seek further professional authentication or walk away.

Where to Get Your Elgin Diamond Watch Authenticated

For definitive authentication, consider these options:

• Certified Watch Appraiser: Seek out a reputable watch appraiser specializing in vintage timepieces. They have the expertise to examine the watch in detail and provide an authentication report.
• Certified Gemologist Appraiser (CGA): If the diamonds are a significant part of the watch's value, a CGA can assess the diamonds' authenticity, quality, and whether they are original to the piece.
• Reputable Vintage Watch Dealers: Some established vintage watch dealers offer authentication services or can provide an expert opinion. Choose dealers with a strong reputation and demonstrable expertise in Elgin watches.
• Online Authentication Services (with Caution): Several online services offer watch authentication based on photos and descriptions. Use these with caution and research the service's reputation thoroughly before paying for their services. They are generally less reliable than in-person appraisals.

Actionable Insight: Invest in professional authentication if you have any doubts about your Elgin diamond watch, especially if it's a valuable piece. The cost of authentication is a small price to pay compared to the potential loss of purchasing a fake.

FAQ: Common Questions About Elgin Diamond Watch Authenticity

Q: Are all Elgin diamond watches valuable?

A: Not all. Value depends on factors like the watch's age, model, metal (gold, platinum), diamond quality and size, condition, and rarity. Some Elgin diamond watches are more collectible and valuable than others. Rarity and condition significantly impact value.

Q: Can I authenticate an Elgin diamond watch myself?

A: You can perform preliminary checks using the guidelines in this article. However, for definitive authentication, especially for valuable pieces, professional appraisal is recommended. Self-authentication can be unreliable for complex fakes.

Q: Where can I find reliable information about Elgin watches?

A: Reputable sources include:

• Pocket Watch Database: (pocketwatchdatabase.com) - Excellent resource for Elgin serial number lookups and history.
• NAWCC (National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors): (nawcc.org) - Offers resources, forums, and publications on horology.
• Vintage Watch Forums: Online forums dedicated to vintage watches can be valuable sources of information and community expertise.
• Books on Vintage Watches and Elgin History: Search for books specifically on Elgin watches or vintage American watches in general.

Q: What is the best way to clean an Elgin diamond watch?

A: For general cleaning, use a soft, dry cloth to wipe the case and crystal. For deeper cleaning, especially around diamonds, use a very soft brush (like a baby toothbrush) and lukewarm soapy water (mild dish soap). Rinse thoroughly and dry carefully. Avoid harsh chemicals or ultrasonic cleaners, which can damage vintage watches. For valuable pieces, professional cleaning is advisable.

Q: Where can I sell a real Elgin diamond watch?

A: Potential selling venues include:

• Reputable Vintage Watch Dealers: They may purchase watches outright or offer consignment services.
• Auction Houses: For higher-value pieces, specialized watch auctions can reach a wide audience of collectors.
• Online Marketplaces (with Caution): Platforms like eBay can be used, but be prepared to handle buyer inquiries and potential scams. Clearly document the watch's authenticity in your listing.
• Antique Shops and Jewelers: Some antique shops and jewelers specializing in vintage jewelry and watches may be interested.

Conclusion: Investing in Knowledge for Peace of Mind

Determining whether an Elgin diamond watch is real or fake requires careful observation, knowledge of the brand's history and characteristics, and a healthy dose of skepticism. By diligently following the authentication steps outlined in this guide, you significantly increase your chances of identifying a genuine piece and avoiding costly counterfeits.

Remember, investing in knowledge is the best defense against deception. Take your time, do your research, and don't hesitate to seek professional help when needed. With informed diligence, you can confidently appreciate the beauty and historical significance of a genuine Elgin diamond watch, knowing you've made a wise and authentic investment.

References and Further Reading

• Pocket Watch Database - Elgin Serial Number Lookup and History
• National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) - Horological Resources and Community
• "Complete Price Guide to Watches" by Cooksey Shugart, Tom Engle, and Richard E. Gilbert (or similar reputable watch price guides).
• "American Pocket Watches: Identification and Values" by Cooksey Shugart and Tom Engle (or similar books on American watch history).