For those who push boundaries and seek adventure in the most challenging environments, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II stands as a steadfast companion. More than just a timepiece, it's a symbol of exploration, resilience, and unwavering reliability. This in-depth guide delves into the rich history, exceptional features, and enduring appeal of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II, exploring why it remains a coveted watch for adventurers and discerning collectors alike.
A History Forged in Exploration: From Caves to Peaks
The story of the Rolex Explorer II is inextricably linked to the spirit of adventure that defines the Rolex brand. Born from the legacy of the original Rolex Explorer, a watch designed to withstand the rigors of mountaineering and exploration, the Explorer II emerged as a specialized tool watch for even more demanding environments.
The Genesis of the Explorer Line
The foundation of the Explorer lineage was laid in the 1950s, with Rolex's close association with expeditions to Mount Everest. The lessons learned from these extreme tests led to the creation of the original Rolex Explorer (Reference 1016), a watch celebrated for its legibility, robustness, and simplicity. This watch became an icon, embodying the spirit of exploration.
The Explorer II Emerges: A Watch for the Extreme
In 1971, Rolex introduced the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II (Reference 1655). This wasn't just an evolution of the Explorer; it was a distinct model designed for specific needs. The key innovation was the addition of a fixed 24-hour bezel and a dedicated 24-hour hand. This feature was crucial for explorers operating in environments with prolonged daylight or darkness, such as polar regions or caves, where distinguishing between AM and PM can be challenging. Nicknamed the "Freccione" (Italian for "big arrow") due to its prominent orange 24-hour hand, the Reference 1655 established the Explorer II as a tool watch with a unique purpose.
Decoding the Design: Form and Functionality
The design of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is a testament to Rolex's commitment to functionality and durability. Every element is carefully considered to serve a purpose in demanding environments.
The Robust 42mm Case: Built for Endurance
Currently, the Explorer II features a robust 42mm Oyster case, crafted from corrosion-resistant Oystersteel. This larger size (increased from 40mm in previous generations) enhances legibility and wrist presence. The case is waterproof to 100 meters (330 feet), thanks to its Triplock winding crown and solid construction, ensuring reliable performance in wet and challenging conditions. The brushed finish on the case and bracelet minimizes reflections and adds to the tool watch aesthetic.
The Iconic 24-Hour Bezel: Mastering Time Zones (and Caves!)
The fixed 24-hour bezel is arguably the most distinctive feature of the Explorer II. Originally designed to prevent confusion between AM and PM hours in environments with no natural day/night cycle, it also serves as a practical tool for tracking a second time zone when paired with the 24-hour hand. This functionality makes the Explorer II not only an adventure watch but also a subtle GMT watch for travelers who appreciate understated design.
Dial Variations: Polar White and Classic Black
The Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is available with two dial options: a crisp polar white dial and a classic black dial. The polar white dial, often referred to as the "polar Explorer II," offers exceptional legibility, especially in low-light conditions, and is highly sought after. The black dial provides a more traditional Rolex sports watch aesthetic. Both dial variations feature applied hour markers and Mercedes hands, filled with Rolex's Chromalight luminescent material for superior nighttime visibility.
The Chromalight Display: Legibility in the Darkest Depths
Rolex's Chromalight display ensures exceptional legibility in all lighting conditions. The long-lasting blue luminescence on the hour markers and hands provides optimal visibility in darkness, a critical feature for explorers venturing into caves, jungles, or during nighttime expeditions. This commitment to readability is a hallmark of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II.
The Oyster Bracelet and Oysterlock Clasp: Secure and Comfortable
The Explorer II is fitted with a solid-link Oyster bracelet in Oystersteel, known for its robustness and comfort. The bracelet features the Oysterlock safety clasp, preventing accidental opening, and the Easylink comfort extension system, allowing for quick adjustments of approximately 5mm – invaluable for adapting to changing wrist sizes in varying temperatures or when wearing over layers.
The Heart of the Explorer II: Caliber 3285
Powering the current Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is the Rolex caliber 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. This movement represents the pinnacle of Rolex's horological expertise.
Precision and Reliability: The Rolex Caliber 3285
The Caliber 3285 is renowned for its precision, reliability, and robustness. It incorporates the Chronergy escapement, patented by Rolex, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. It also features a Parachrom hairspring, offering greater resistance to shocks and temperature variations. The movement boasts a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, providing ample autonomy and convenience. Like all Rolex Perpetual movements, the 3285 is a certified Swiss Chronometer, rigorously tested by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute).
Evolution of Movements: A Look Back
Over its history, the Explorer II has been powered by a series of Rolex movements, each representing advancements in horological technology. Earlier models featured calibers like the 1575 GMT, 3085, and 3185/3186. The transition to the Caliber 3285 marked a significant step forward in terms of performance and efficiency, further solidifying the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II's position as a top-tier tool watch.
Why Choose an Oyster Perpetual Explorer II? Practicality and Prestige
The appeal of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II extends beyond its functional capabilities. It represents a unique blend of practicality, prestige, and historical significance.
A Tool Watch with Timeless Appeal
While undeniably a tool watch designed for exploration, the Explorer II possesses a timeless aesthetic that transcends trends. Its robust design, balanced proportions, and understated elegance make it versatile enough for everyday wear, while its inherent ruggedness ensures it can handle any adventure. It’s a watch that speaks to those who value functionality without sacrificing style.
Durability and Reliability: Built to Last
Rolex watches are synonymous with durability and reliability, and the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is no exception. Built to withstand extreme conditions, it’s a watch designed to last a lifetime, and potentially generations, with proper care and servicing. This inherent robustness offers peace of mind, whether you're navigating city streets or exploring remote landscapes.
Investment Potential: A Rolex That Holds Value
Rolex watches are known for their strong value retention and appreciation, and the Explorer II is no different. While not always considered as "hot" as some other Rolex sports models, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II holds its value exceptionally well and can be a sound investment, particularly in the pre-owned market. Certain vintage references, like the original 1655, are highly collectible and command significant premiums.
The Explorer II in the Rolex Lineup: Where Does It Fit?
Understanding where the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II sits within the broader Rolex family helps appreciate its unique position.
Explorer II vs. Explorer I: Understanding the Differences
While both belong to the Explorer family, the Explorer II and the Explorer I serve different purposes. The Explorer I is the quintessential minimalist sports watch, focused on legibility and robustness in a time-only format. The Explorer II, on the other hand, is more complex, offering a 24-hour bezel and hand for specialized needs. The Explorer II is also typically larger and more visually prominent on the wrist.
Explorer II vs. GMT-Master II: Navigating Time Zones
Both the Explorer II and the GMT-Master II are capable of displaying multiple time zones. However, the GMT-Master II features a rotatable 24-hour bezel, allowing it to track a third time zone, and is generally considered the more traditional "travel watch." The Explorer II with its fixed bezel offers a more subtle GMT function and is often favored by those who prefer a less busy dial and a more tool-oriented aesthetic. The GMT-Master II also typically commands a higher price point and is often perceived as more prestigious.
Caring for Your Oyster Perpetual Explorer II: Ensuring Longevity
To ensure your Oyster Perpetual Explorer II serves you faithfully for years to come, proper care and maintenance are essential.
Regular Servicing and Maintenance
Rolex recommends regular servicing of your watch by an authorized Rolex service center, typically every 5-10 years, depending on usage. Regular servicing ensures the movement remains clean, lubricated, and functioning optimally, preserving its accuracy and longevity.
Proper Storage and Handling
When not wearing your Explorer II, store it in a safe, dry place, ideally in its original box or a watch case. Avoid exposing it to extreme temperatures, strong magnetic fields, or harsh chemicals. While robust, it's still a precision instrument and should be treated with respect.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is the price of a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II?
The retail price of a new Oyster Perpetual Explorer II varies depending on the market and retailer. You can find the most up-to-date pricing on the official Rolex website or from authorized dealers. Pre-owned prices can vary based on condition, age, and market demand.
What are the different dial colors available for the Explorer II?
Currently, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is available with a polar white dial and a black dial.
Is the Explorer II a good investment?
Rolex watches, including the Explorer II, generally hold their value well and can appreciate over time. However, watch investment is complex and depends on various factors. It's best to consider a Rolex primarily as a timepiece to be enjoyed, with potential investment appreciation as a secondary benefit.
Is the Explorer II waterproof?
Yes, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is waterproof to 100 meters (330 feet), suitable for swimming and water activities, but not recommended for deep-sea diving.
What is the power reserve of the Explorer II?
The Oyster Perpetual Explorer II powered by Caliber 3285 has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
Where can I buy a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II?
You can purchase a new Oyster Perpetual Explorer II from authorized Rolex dealers. Pre-owned models can be found through reputable watch dealers and online marketplaces specializing in luxury watches.
Conclusion: The Enduring Allure of the Explorer II
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is more than just a watch; it's a symbol of adventure, resilience, and timeless design. From its origins rooted in exploration to its modern-day iteration, it continues to captivate watch enthusiasts and adventurers alike. Its robust construction, specialized functionality, and enduring aesthetic make it a truly exceptional timepiece, ready to accompany you on any journey, whether to the depths of a cave or the heights of your ambitions. The Explorer II remains a testament to Rolex's unwavering commitment to quality, innovation, and the spirit of exploration.
References and Further Reading
- Rolex Official Website - Oyster Perpetual Explorer II
- Hodinkee: The Rolex Explorer II: A Complete History
- Fratello Watches: Rolex Explorer II Buying Guide
